Sunday 27 April 2014

Farewell to Meribel

Wednesday, 24 April 2014




Six hairpin bends, no duvets, give the money to charity

The mountains close in on the road the nearer we get to Meribel. Indeed when we begin to climb up from Moutier Noah is shocked by how close the car is to sheer rock faces as we accelerate up though the six hairpin bends on the 14km climb to 1400m. The adults complain I am going to fast, I tell them Assaf would have considered my speed too slow.

The chalet is closed, chairs are stacked on each other. Typical end-of-season appearance of a place which has just been vacated after a hectic season of happy skiers enjoying the great views up the valley to Mount Vallon, plus the closeness to the ski lifts, the local bars and restaurants.

We hunt for bedding. There are no duvets!!! Emergency! Text Laurent at SkiBeat, the regional manager whose first job with the company was chalet host where? Le Chalet de Meribel of course.

Laurence comes in with a skiers' suntan, a huge smile and a promise the duvets are just back from the laundry and resort host Dave will bring them shortly. And he does. Phew!

We reminisce about the years we worked together and his affection for this chalet. “Its the end of an era,” Laurent say. “We had good times and its sad to say goodbye.” 

Then the shortest chalet hand-back in history. We don't count spoons, we just read the electricity meter and sign that everything is okay. Who cares if a spoon is missing, or a mirror has vanished as we discover later? Once I did, not any more.

“Are you selling everything? Yes. How about the the cooker. Why? Well my cooker just broke. You want this one? Yes, how much? Ah,but I don’t have money with me. How about you donate the money to your favourite charity? Okay, an Alzheimer's one in honour of my grandmother. Good, its a deal“



Farewell to Meribel

Thursday, 25 April, 2014

Look left lean right, sliding down on two planks, pierre chaude

Yippee! We are going skiing. Yes indeed. Noah for the first time and us I hope not for the last time.

We got the skis and boots last night thanks to the kindness of Phil Calder who sent one of the guys from his company SkiHigher over to fit us out.

Pile everything into the car and drive up to Mottaret where we know there are two beginners’ slopes and also lifts to the top of Plattiers 2 on the Tougnette  side of the valley.

What a day of brilliant sunshine, controlled skiing down one long run into Moutiers in time to see Noah confidently skiing down the beginners’ slope after just an hour or so on skis for the first time.

After our home-made baguette sandwich lunch, Amit and Vicky head up to Platiers and Noah and I learn turning on the gentle slope...and he gets it!  All I said was, “If you want to turn left, look left and lean right.”  He did, and it worked. He was so happy to have discovered how to turn he just kept doing run after run until Amit and Vicky arrive in time to see him doing multiple turns.

Back to the bigger, steeper junior slope which defeated him in the morning Noah makes three good runs, with only one fall.  A good day’s work. High fives Dude!

As for me, good to know I can still enjoy the thrill of sliding down a mountain on two planks, how crazy is that? Also good that I knew when to call a stop. Definitely want to ski next year, choosing good conditions plus ski-in ski-out.

To celebrate went to rustic Savoyard restaurant Kuisena for Pierre Chaude, a hot plate brought to the table on which you cook your own meat. We all loved it, especially Noah who had never seen such a thing before.

Farewell to Meribel

Friday, 26 April, 2014

Price gouging, old acquaintances,  Noah gets it, papers signed, Ibex leap by


Assaf who got in towards midnight last night is up before any of us, because he is going skiing with Phil, yes he of the ski boots mentioned earlier. Coffee and croissants and chatter about shared memories, price gouging in resort and Scottish independence. Yes, you guessed, Phil is Scottish!

The threatened storms and rain don’t materialize so its back up the mountains for another day’s skiing for Amit and Noah.

Vicky and I have to sign some papers in our local bank which leads to the Meribel classic of running into two old acquaintances, Clive of Barometre former owner of Jack’s Bar where years ago together with Phil we discovered the two tier-pricing system for tourists and locals, and Peter White who owns chalet Le Vallee Blanche in Les Allues, one of the first chalets Assaf leased when he set up his ski company. Peter’s wife left him for a woman and he had a cancer op three years ago, otherwise he says he is fine! Last night we ran into Jane of Jane and Stephan on our way to the restaurant, so that is more or less the complete set of long-term acquaintances in Meribel!

Arrive in Mottaret in time for Amit and Noah to have a lunch break. Assaf arrives and V, A and  A head off for some serious skiing while Noah and I get back on the training slope.  After a few runs I suggest we ski down together half way and then he continues on his own the rest of the way, take the moving carpet back up and ski down to me who will be waiting for him in mid run. ”No, come with me.”

Next run he sets off in front of me and is skiing and turning really well so I stop half way down, he doesn’t look back till the bottom. Surprised, he waves me to come down, I wave him to get on the lift.  He does, then skis down to me and then on down on his own. Up and down to me again and that’s it. Next time going up he waves me to go down the slope and from then on I can sit and watch him making run after run till V, A and A return and he can proudly show how he can ski on his own. Job done.

Assaf and me rush back to the chalet to meet the estate agent to discuss some final details and then do a high speed drive down to Salin les Termes to the Notaire’s office to clarify all the financial details of the sale completion. Assaf signs various papers and that’s it. The Chalet de Meribel is virtually sold. The adventure is drawing to a close.

As we drive back up towards Meribel I see two Bouquetin (Ibex?) leaping down the hill on the right. Its the first time I have ever seen this emblematic animal. Is this a sign? If so indicating what? That the journey is complete? You have seen the Marmottes and the Eagles and now for the first time the Savoie’s most treasured animal.

Farewell to Meribel

Saturday, 26 April 2014

Photos, curtains, "My tailor is rich," price of a rip off

Commemorative photo of Assaf and me outside Le Chalet de Meribel, mirroring the photo we had taken when we bought the place nearly 15 years ago. Mind you this was a bit more celebratory, including holding up the contract of sale and a bottle of champagne, a bit like those tacky photos of lottery winners. “Actually this will change my life.”

Taking down the living-room curtains begins the feeling that we are definitely leaving. This is compounded later in the day when we begin packing the items we would like to take with us, either because they might be useful, or for sentimental reasons.

Write a farewell card, in well intentioned but possibly dubious French, for our neighbours Paul and Susie Haller who were the only ones to befriend us in the building. This despite the fact that the only English retired dentist Paul knew was “My tailor is rich,” which as you can imagine became a source of many amusing exchanges between us.

Paul is also a Chevalier de Vin or some such in his home town of Beaune which meant that he could always be relied on to produce a decent bottle of wine from time to time.  And he recommended the previously mentioned wine merchant in said town. Susie knitted and knitted and knitted, and was content with that.

Heard from Phil that one of the people who offered a slightly derisory price for two of the sofas was one and the same guy who had ripped me off years ago installing a safety lock to the front door.  “What? Him? Tell him he can’t have them,” I said in my usual calm and measured response.
Assaf told me not to be stupid, and simply to say we had a better offer and see if he would up his.  While Phil agreed this was a sensible approach, he said to me, “You made my day, I knew you would respond like that. Just great.” Hardly surprising given that Phil is a hard man who never lets anyone get away with ripping him off.

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