PATAGONIA, Day 5

Day 5: Tierra del Fuego, Feb 27

In which I identify noises in the night, we catch Roger's "End of the World " train, reach Estancia Despedida, check the border ford and meet the kissing customs officer

Ushuaia: A night interrupted by noises. Reminded me of the tales of travellers in the jungle who would hear animal noises in the night and wonder if they were lions, or monkeys or alligators or who knows what? I managed to identify a motorbike, a truck, and the hotel lift which slid up the wall behind our heads.

John's friend Roger, who we met on a previous trip, built the replica steam train engine which happened to be pulling El Tren del Fin del Mundo (The End of the World Train) which we caught this morning. We wanted to take this "tourist" ride because John is an engine buff and because it was originally the railway used by the convicts (yes, they had to build the railway, too). Short trip, lots of photos and then we leave Ushuaia.

Our stop for the night is Estancia Despedida, "Posada del Guanaco", another farm of a mere 100,000 acres and some 4,500 head of cattle, plus 3,000 wild Guanacos which they are not allowed to cull because they are protected animals. The odd one might end up as dog food from time to time, but...

We are lucky to be here because the family home burnt down three weeks ago and the family are staying in the guest house. Seems because of the wooden construction and the fierce winds, the house was gone in under half an hour! We will be the last guests for some time.

Before dinner John decides he should drive to the border crossing for Chile to check if it is possible to cross the next day as planned. Seems the border is a river, a ford, no bridge. You literally have to drive across the river. If its too high, the border is closed. Simple!

Naturally we could not miss this experience, so we all piled into the car with him. Thirty kilometres of unsealed road with stones pinging on the underside of the car we reach the border. A young, black-bearded Customs officer comes out and it's handshakes and kisses all round. First time Vicky is kissed by a customs officer. (Now she is all-square with me since I was kissed by a young lady bank executive in Buenos Aires! Mind you, come to think of it, so was she.)

"It will be okay," our kissing customs officer assures us as we all stare at the rushing waters of the Rio Grande at the Bella Vista border crossing. If necessary he will tow us through (presumably for a fee) provided we bring our own rope. Ooops.

Back to the the ranch for dinner with host Vivi and daughter Inez who share a light strawberry birthmark under their left eye. John discusses ropes. Inez tells me she is milking cows the next morning, by hand. I ask to join her.